Writing a Uniform Specification Sheet (Tech Pack)
A tech pack is the document a manufacturer builds a sample against, and later checks a finished garment against. It's more detailed than the description you'd send for an initial quote, that only needs to be specific enough to price the job. A tech pack needs to be specific enough that two different sewing lines, or two different sample rounds months apart, produce the same garment.
What a tech pack needs to include
Garment type and style reference. A short, consistent name or code for the style, used the same way across every document tied to the order, quote, sample approval, purchase order, so nothing gets confused between garment types on a multi-style program.
Fabric and GSM. Fiber content, weave or knit type, and weight in grams per square meter. If you don't have a target GSM, describe how the garment will be used (frequency of laundering, physical activity level, climate) and let the manufacturer recommend a range. See Choosing Uniform Fabric.
Bill of materials (BOM). Every component the garment needs beyond the main fabric, thread, buttons, zippers, interlining, labels, trims, each with a quantity or spec. A missing BOM line is one of the most common causes of a sample coming back with the wrong button or the wrong zipper pull.
Points of measure (POM) and tolerance. Specific measurement locations (chest width, sleeve length, inseam) with a target value and an acceptable tolerance, usually in centimeters. Tolerance matters as much as the target number: a spec with no stated tolerance leaves the factory guessing what counts as a pass.
Colorways. The Pantone reference for each color used in the garment, not a description. See Color Development and Matching.
Construction notes. Seam type, stitch density, reinforcement points, and any construction detail that affects durability or fit and isn't obvious from a photo or sketch alone.
Branding and labeling. Decoration method, exact logo placement (usually given as a measurement from a fixed reference point, like center chest or left sleeve), and label type and placement, woven, printed, or both.
Packing notes. How individual units should be folded, bagged, and labeled, if this differs from the manufacturer's standard packing. Easier to specify here than to correct after production.
How much detail you actually need before a quote
You don't need a finished tech pack to get pricing. A clear written description with reference images is enough for a manufacturer to give you an estimate and confirm MOQ. The tech pack becomes necessary once you move into sampling, because that's the document the factory is actually building against, pricing without one is always an estimate, since exact fabric cost, trim cost, and construction complexity aren't locked until the spec is.
If you don't have design resources to build one
This is normal, not a gap you need to fill before contacting a manufacturer. A manufacturer experienced with custom programs should be able to take a plain description, reference garments or photos, and your general requirements, and turn that into a working tech pack as part of preparing your first sample, rather than requiring a finished document before they'll engage. Ask directly whether this is part of their process; it varies enough between suppliers that it's worth confirming rather than assuming.
Keeping the tech pack current across reorders
A tech pack isn't a one-time document. On a reorder, the same tech pack, not a new interpretation of "the same uniform as last time", is what lets a manufacturer reproduce a garment without a full sampling cycle. Keep it on file and reference the exact version and date when placing a repeat order. See Reordering and Managing a Uniform Program.
FAQ
Do I need a tech pack for every garment in a multi-style program, or can one document cover several styles? Each style needs its own tech pack, since fabric, measurements, and construction differ between garment types even within one program. A shared cover document can reference the company-wide color palette and branding rules once, with each style's tech pack pointing back to it, rather than repeating that information in every file.
What's the difference between a proto sample spec and a full tech pack? An early proto sample can work from a partial spec focused on fit and silhouette, with fabric or color still to be finalized. The full tech pack, including confirmed fabric, colorways, and complete BOM, is what the pre-production sample and bulk production run against.
Who typically creates the tech pack, the buyer or the manufacturer? Either, depending on the buyer's resources. Buyers with an in-house design or product team usually provide their own; buyers without one commonly work with the manufacturer to develop it from a description and reference images. Neither approach is unusual.
What happens if the finished sample doesn't match the tech pack? Check it point by point, fabric, each point of measure against its stated tolerance, color against the Pantone reference, construction details, and send back a specific list of what doesn't match rather than a general note that something's off. That's what gets a fast, accurate revision instead of another round of guessing.
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